December 24, 2003
Background
Just a bit of background on this travel log:
We normally take a holiday trip to visit friends in northern California. In late 2003, our friends moved to Swindon, England for two years. We all decided to keep up the tradition and consequently Tedd, Hol, and myself all now have passports and are heading to England for the holidays. Because I didn't want to offend or breach any privacy I've used initials to represent our friends. Hopefully it isn't too confusing to read.
Secondarily, our digital camera can take some pretty blurry low-light photos and given the time of year in England (starts to get dark between 3 and 4pm) a ton of our photos are blurry. Sorry!
Last, the permanent URL for this webpage is actually: http://mehling.org/archives/cat_uk_0304.html. If you want to bookmark, please use this URL. If you are just here for pictures, by all means go straight to the photo albums.

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December 25, 2003
(One long) Day 1 and 2
(2003/12/24-25 - Thursday)
We arrived at LAX shortly after 1pm for our 5:45pm flight to LHR. *sigh* Well, we certainly weren't going to be late. We waited with Dan outside the secure area for about 2.5 hours... We chatted and played card games. In the interest of efficiency I made some last minute phone calls to friends to wish them a happy new year.
I was struck by a service man (army insignias, service style haircut, etc.) sitting at the next table over. I watched him for an hour. He sat with no luggage -- just a luggage carrier and his coffee. Waiting for someone? I wondered if this was army training... sitting quietly and patiently. I found it impressive. I would have been constantly fidgeting, reading, phoning, etc. in some invariably lost cause to make efficient use of time. I hope the men and women in service at this particular time have as good of a holiday as possible -- that goes for their families too.
The flight was long and uneventful. It was interesting to watch a small group of multi-ethnic children band together and run up and down the aisles all night... Probably really annoying to many, but these kids were stuck on a really long flight. Also amusing: listening to the flight attendants -- every other word was either "lovely" or "cheers".
J and M met us at the airport and we picked up our rental from Hertz -- a twitchy little 4 door Ford Focus with an atrocious 5 speed gearbox.
Brit phrase of the day: Excess - deductible. "Ben paid extra money on the rental so if he rams someone in this Ford, his excess fee is £0."
Following J back out the M4 to
Swindon was fairly simple with only a couple of roundabouts. The car guy in me picked out the interesting models not available in the US. Of note, an Audi S3, a Lotus Elise, and an Audi A4 Avant TDI (lucky bastard).
We enjoyed a delicious xmas meal prepared by E. We tried to stay up as late as possible to get our time change/jet lag regulated ASAP. The 'Christmas cracker' jokes were awful (apparently they are supposed to be?), but we dutifully read each one aloud. The picture is of young C with her own cracker.
Photo Albums:
http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day01/, http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day02/

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December 26, 2003
Bloody ATM machine
(2003/12/26 - Friday)
Slept late today -- trying to recover from the massive time change. Spent some time chatting with R, J's Mum, today. She talked a bit about growing up during WWII and the Blitzkrieg. For the first time I came to realize that this event probably single handedly shaped her life and attitude -- similar to how the great depression shaped much of my grandma's ways. I'd guess our generation has yet to experience anything so life altering.
Because most stores and tourist-y things are closed on Boxing Day, we went over to an indoor outlet center built in a 1920's railroad works. Of note: the guy at the Gap who told Hol no native Brits wear jeans was a freak. I'd guess 50 percent of the people were in jeans -- really, besides the store names, the chorus of "cheers" coming from the shoppers, and the indoor smoking (although, not much), this could have just as easily been a mall in the states.
This was also my first chance to pull some cash out of the ATM. There were 3 machines available, and each one had slightly different bank branding. I selected the first one and checked the "network" markings. Yep, the thing had a couple of the same logos as my card. Put my debit card in and punched in my pin. Hrrrrm, when I went to withdraw however, the machine said I had 0 balance. Hrrrmm. I knew that wasn't right and without thinking I quickly stuck my MasterCard in the machine to see if I could use that -- as soon as I hit the "enter your pin" screen, I thought 'duh'. I don't have a pin for this card. No problem, cancel and try the next machine. Hrrrm. The screen seems frozen. Oh, fantastic. I'm standing in the rain in Swindon, my credit card is in the machine, and the thing is freaking hung. OK, now what? J ventures into the rain to investigate what happened to me, and the machine finally unwedges itself and cheerily alerts us that my card has been retained. Excellent. At least the next machine over was able to figure out I did have money in my accounts. One card down, two to go.
Brit phrase of the day: Prat - idiot. "Who is that American prat loitering about the ATM?"
Also, roundabouts apparently have rules. Momentarily lost sight of the B's on the way back to the house... When I finally caught up with them, I attempted to stay right on their tail. After the 3rd roundabout it struck me that there was probably some sort rules to these things. Later J laughed that he'd "forgotten to mention them, but he'd meant to". Fantastic -- no doubt there was a mob of angry Brits cursing the "bloody tourist" in Old Town Swindon tonight. Sorry. Although, after hearing the rules, I'd still argue for the "every man for himself" method I'd been employing.
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day03/

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December 27, 2003
Warick and Stratford-upon-Avon
(2003/12/27 - Saturday)
Brit phrase of the day: Welcome Break - Rest Stop. "J tore into the Welcome Break car park, bladder bursting, to use the toilet."
Drove out to
Warick to visit the famous old castle. J dropped us off and then went on to take his mum home.
The castle has quite a history (as does most everything here) to it. M had recently done a report on the surrounding village and was able to tell us a little about it after being urged on by her mum.
We were there for maybe half a day... This is basically a history lesson set inside a castle, complete with castle rooms, towers, walls, dungeons, and torture chambers. There were a few things that I wanted to see but didn't get a chance. I'd guess we needed maybe 2 more hours. Overall, I’d rate this attraction pretty good. There are also a number of historic buildings in the town.
J met us back at the car park and we drove out to Stratford to check-in to our hotel. We put the kids (w/ Tedd and Morgan in charge) into one room, ordered room service, a movie, and escaped to our dinner reservation. Adult night out started with a nice meal at The Lamb (on Sheep St. no less). One quiet meal and two bottles of wine later we wandered over to the Swan theatre to see if we could pull return (rush is what we called 'em in the states) tickets for All's Well that Ends Well. Only 3 available... Bad luck. (update: very bad luck indeed. I tried a couple of times to find return tickets for us during the next week and was unable to get any.)

What to do now? Pub. We hit the Flower and Sons pub (Flower is the local brew co, although this particular pub was a 'free house'. Also, Flower's son was responsible for the funding of the original Swan theatre, although he largely donated the money quietly out of the public's eye. He was later publicly recognized for his donation of 22,700 pounds -- quite a sum for 1879. ) on Henley Street. Yum. We spent about an hour there, people watching and trying to figure out which bloke each girl wanted to take home. A couple of Guinness’s later, it was time to move on. It's been about 10 years since California outlawed smoking indoors or at bars, but I've gotten spoiled by it and an hour was as much as I could take.
Right, a walk down to Riverside St. put us right in front of a swankier bar. Time for second dessert and drinks.
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day04/

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December 28, 2003
Shakespeare's Stratford
(2003/12/28 - Sunday)
The hotel that we stayed at provided a full English breakfast. None of us had a full English hangover, so I'm not sure if we deserved it. I ate enough for several hangovers anyway. Eggs, potatos, fried tomatos, mushrooms, toast, sausage, beans, juice, tea, and coffee. I also had cereal and croissants. Pure heaven.
Brit phrase of the day: Sort out -- Take care of. When asked for a high chair, the young waiter said, "I'll sort you out.".
After breakfast, we walked across the Avon to the
Royal Shakespeare Company's theatre complex to get a tour. We were able to go into both theatres (
the Royal Shakespeare Theatre, with a ~1500 seat house and
the Swan, much smaller house built inside the walls of the original theater as a more traditional Shakespearean theatre) and see both the house and backstage areas. Additionally we were able to visit the gallery area where they have on display a number of historic costumes and playbills/posters from older productions.
Being the consummate tourists we had to visit Shakespeare's birthplace, the home where he was born and raised. The tour included a fairly interesting review of him and his family's history in Stratford-upon-Avon. The docents in the home were very kind to point out the relevant details and what life would have been like during his time here. I found it interesting that some of the first visitors to sign the guestbook (when they started having a guestbook) were John and Abigail Adams and Thomas Jefferson as they toured the English country side in the late 18th century (both Adams and Jefferson were assigned to France as ambassadors during that time).
We also stopped by the city's
Holy Trinity to visit
Shakespeare's grave, placed prominently (along with his wife and other family members) under the steps leading to the front of the church. The churches here are incredible, even "small" ones such as this. J just smiled at my awe. Growing up here he's encountered so many of them that, it's impossible not to take them for granted.
We stopped to get some dinner before heading home. Where? Yep, a pub. This is sweet!
Because the motorway home was all blocked up we took a side road back home. I'm sure during the day it was a pretty scenic drive -- but at night it was fairly technical. I was surprised how narrow these roads can be and was happy to only have to follow someone. Navigating on top of everything else would have been overload. It's funny how much muscle memory plays into shifting a manual. My right hand kept trying to shift.
One additional annoyance with right hand drive manuals is the indicator stalk remains on the left hand side of the steering column. Shifting and signaling in a RHD car is a two part process -- much smoother in a LHD where you can use your left hand to steer and nudge the turn indicator and right hand to shift. Tons more roundabouts to play on. Not only have I noticed many (presumably) native drivers employing the same 'every man for himself' strategy I use, they also seem to have no knowledge that the lines painted on the pavement are meant to indicate lanes in which to keep your car. We just joined in the fun.
We had to run out for milk once we were home. J took me to the magic roundabout. Picture five smallish roundabouts laid out as a star, but connected together by a large roundabout. As I'm finding everywhere, the Brits provide you with highly detailed signage, about 20 meters before you get to the road being described. Additionally, the detail is so fine that you need about 30 seconds to understand the intended meaning, rendering the signs almost completely useless. As I drove through the magic roundabout as a passenger, I realized I would just point the car toward the outlet I wanted and dodge cars on the fly. Far easier.
Another Brit word of the day (not really related to anything that happened today -- it just came out in conversation): Splash Out -- giving generously, to spoil someone (in a good way).
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day05/

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December 29, 2003
Oxford
(2003/12/29 - Monday)
Brit phrase of the day: let off - drop off zone. Bonus phrase: Way Out - Exit. "Quick, find the way out, this is a let off area!".
We made a quick day trip up to Oxford without the B's today. This was my first time driving without J around to follow. To top it off, I had to drive straight through the magic roundabout. Hol took some photos of the signs to give some more insight into the insanity that is the "magic roundabout". Apparently Swindon was the site of some testing on traffic patterns and roundabouts. They found that the magic roundabout was so efficient they used it in ZERO other cities, but kindly left it for Swindon. Jamie claims it is quite efficient, however when we went through it this afternoon it was a freaking parking lot, er, excuse me, car park.
We walked around Oxford for a couple of hours. I thoroughly enjoyed the architecture and didn't mind that it was a bit rainy. Walking through the neighborhoods looking at the various old homes really reminded me how much history this place had and how much history my home lacks. It is hard to imagine the homes and buildings in Orange County being around in a few hundred years, and with their purposeful non styled architecture, I hope they aren't.
We had a nice meal at Brown's restaurant on Woodstock Road. Tedd had steak, which he'll eat any chance he's allowed to order it. We've quickly learned that there is no such thing as "Sprite" or "7Up" here, however ordering "lemonade" will get you something very similar, to Tedd's great relief.
We stopped by the
Eagle and Child pub for its significant literary historical relevance. We discussed
The Inklings and also the recent Salon.com article,
the real fellowship of the ring, regarding Tolkien and Dyson arguing all night with C. S. Lewis about religion and possibly paving the way for the two more noted authors to write their "classics". These are some of Tedd's most favorite books so hopefully the relevance wasn't lost on him.
Not really surprising, but we got lost on the way home -- once in Swindon proper, thankfully. One wrong exit from a roundabout was all it took. The kind attendant at the petrol station set us straight. From there we got lost looking for a street name (on the map) that's called something completely different in reality. Finally got home with only a single near-death roundabout experience -- lucky for us the power and handling of the Ford Focus got us out of the situation right-quick. *smirk*
J and I walked down to a pub for Monday Night Football (Southhampton v. Arsenal: 0-1). Guinness and Strongbow consumed. Good.
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day06/

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December 30, 2003
London, Day 1
(2003/12/30 - Tuesday)
S, who was J's best man, had generously agreed to loan us his 3 bedroom flat in Chiswick, London so we could stay in the city for a few days. His flat was really nice and located a 15 minute walk from the Turnham Green tube station.
The few things I found invaluable while in London were:
1) a small visitbritain.com pocket guide to London. I got mine at AAA in the states for free. It contained both a tube map, plus some reasonably sized city maps with various attractions and restaurants marked. I used it constantly to find our way around.
2) a copy of Time Out for the week we were there. This listed open attractions and events, plays, and other interesting sites. They also make a general city guides without the time sensitive event listings.
After arriving in Chiswick and finding parking for both cars (there were 8 of us with both families combined.), we hurried off to the tube to make our first event, a "
frog tour". The frog tour started just across from the All Bar 1 building, next to the London Eye. The tour itself is very similar to the double-decker bus tours everyone says you gotta do, except that it's in an amphibious vehicle which eventually drives down a sandy beach and enters the Thames River at Vauxhall. It then powers up and down the river for an additional view of the city from the Thames itself. Very cool stuff. Highlights (really saw too much too fast to even take in...):
Parliament Square,
10 Downing Street,
MI6 (and
MI5),
Westminster Abbey,
St. Stephen's Tower (Big Ben), various parks, and more. The tour guide proclaimed that a
large flood in London was inevitable, and felt that authorities weren't taking the warning signs seriously. Something I'd never really heard of before.
We all stopped to have lunch near the London Eye and Saatchi gallery at County Hall. We then took a walk across the Westminster Bridge (I took 5 pictures to build this panorama from Westminster Bridge. It turned out so-so. In general our 3 year old digital camera has performed well, but it definitely shows its age when compared against newer equipment. In particular the low light shots are horribly blurry.).
We then walked across parliament square, through Saint James's Park and up The Mall to Buckingham Palace. There was a throng of people gathered on the steps of the Queen Victoria monument all facing the palace. We were sort of baffled and J went to ask a Met officer what was up. At that point the palace lit up with white "snow flakes" falling down the front and then transitioned to a huge Union Jack design across its face. Apparently we lucked out, it was part of the "
Brightening up London" event. The kids were pretty wiped out by this point so we all started carrying the little ones and heading for the nearest tube station.
We took S (and A) to the ASK restaurant around the corner from his flat to thank him for his hospitality.
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day07/

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December 31, 2003
London, Day 2
(2003/12/31 - Wednesday)
We headed straight to the
London Eye this morning to take a ride up and over the city. The view from the top is pretty incredible and we were lucky enough to get great weather and visibility (for this time of year). J stayed on the ground to watch little A while the rest of us went up. I took a bunch of pictures but they really don't do justice to sheer size and color of the
London skyline. (The
London Eye site has a photo album, as does
Nick Wood. For pictures of the Eye installation, checkout Nick's stuff.)
We then darted across the Hungerford Bridge to the catch the train at the Embankment tube station. We got off at Tower Hill and walked to the Tower of London. A very tourist-y attraction, but well worth the tour given by the beefeaters (Yeoman Warders) about every hour (according to our Yeoman, they are called beefeaters because they were originally furnished with meat as part of the pay for protecting the King and Queen, while the rest of the general population almost never ate meat.).
The tour is about one and a half hours. The Yeoman talks about the various historical aspects of the castle, following a theme -- in this case we walk the path a headless body would travel from the chopping block on Tower Hill to the Chapel in the castle. Along the way the Yeoman talk about the various people that were held, tortured, murdered, and/or beheaded here. He definitely talks about the gory details where ever possible. Standing between the outer wall and the bell tower was extremely cold -- the coldest I've been in England.
Besides the tour there are various museum type exhibits and other gory attractions. The crown jewels are also on display. The queue was massive -- all suggestions were to show up at opening time (pre purchase your tickets) and go directly to the jewels, then do the other stuff.
The B's decided to split early because the kids were really cold. It was really cold.
We forged on, across the Tower Bridge, which pictures don't do justice. We walked down the Thames opposite the Tower of London. This took as past several interesting sites; the London City Hall, the HMS Belfast, and the Golden Hinde replica.
After walking through a number of side streets and alleys, we found our way to the rebuilt
Globe Theatre. The Globe, while not on the exact original site, is based on the archeological dig of the original site just a few hundred meters away. The design and construction is based on the findings, down to the inch and the materials used (including getting special permission for the thatched roof -- thatched roofs were outlawed in London after the great fire of 1666 which left the city w/ 100,000 homeless). We spent some time in the exhibit space and then joined a walking tour of the stage and house. Unfortunately there was no productions going on this time of year, since it would be pretty cold to sit (or stand if you're a groundling) in an open air, "in the round" theatre. Although, I think, Tedd enjoyed the tour of the Royal Shakespeare Company complex in Stratford more, he liked this text so much so, that we bought him a poster version to take home:
Bernard Levin skillfully summarizes Shakespeare's impact in the following passage from The Story of English:
If you cannot understand my argument, and declare "It's Greek to me", you are quoting Shakespeare; if you claim to be more sinned against than sinning, you are quoting Shakespeare; if you recall your salad days, you are quoting Shakespeare; if you act more in sorrow than in anger, if your wish is father to the thought, if your lost property has vanished into thin air, you are quoting Shakespeare; if you have ever refused to budge an inch or suffered from green-eyed jealousy, if you have played fast and loose, if you have been tongue-tied, a tower of strength, hoodwinked or in a pickle, if you have knitted your brows, made a virtue of necessity, insisted on fair play, slept not one wink, stood on ceremony, danced attendance (on your lord and master), laughed yourself into stitches, had short shrift, cold comfort or too much of a good thing, if you have seen better days or lived in a fool's paradise - why, be that as it may, the more fool you, for it is a foregone conclusion that you are (as good luck would have it) quoting Shakespeare; if you think it is early days and clear out bag and baggage, if you think it is high time and that that is the long and short of it, if you believe that the game is up and that truth will out even if it involves your own flesh and blood, if you lie low till the crack of doom because you suspect foul play, if you have your teeth set on edge (at one fell swoop) without rhyme or reason, then - to give the devil his due - if the truth were known (for surely you have a tongue in your head) you are quoting Shakespeare; even if you bid me good riddance and send me packing, if you wish I were dead as a door-nail, if you think I am an eyesore, a laughing stock, the devil incarnate, a stony-hearted villain, bloody-minded or a blinking idiot, then - by Jove! O Lord! Tut, tut! for goodness' sake! what the dickens! but me no buts - it is all one to me, for you are quoting Shakespeare. (Bernard Levin. From The Story of English.)
From the globe we walked to the Tate Modern, just next door. The Tate Modern is in the refurbished Bankside Power Station (originally designed by Sir Giles Gilbert Scott, of note also the original designer of the famous British red telephone box.) and houses a large collection of modern and contemporary art.
Because it was nearly 5 and we hadn't eaten since breakfast, we went to the top floor cafe for a bite. With the modern London skyline behind us and a view straight on of St. Paul's across the Thames this was a memorable and delicious snack (Hol: grilled mozzarella w/ rocket on spelt ciabatta, Tedd: cured ham and cheese, Ben: egg w/ watercress on whole grain bread and a cappuccino). I'd recommend it as a beautiful location to take a break -- the view is pretty incredible.
Unfortunately we didn't really have enough time to see everything we wanted to... That seems to be a theme here -- the Brits want to leave you wishing for more -- London has certainly done that.
We walked across the Millennium Bridge towards Saint Paul's Cathedral and caught the train at Blackfriars tube station home.
At the end of day 2 in London we'd seen exactly 0 homeless. I suspect this has more to do with the locations we were (mainly tourist areas) and time of year (very cold) than the city's lack of them. The one place I'd expected to encounter them was the tube, however S's flat was in a nice area (911 TTs, Boxsters, BMW E46 M3's, etc. parked all over the neighborhood) ... Today though a slightly dirty and disheveled man sat next to us on the train. He definitely had been drinking and was a bit out of sorts. He was talking and singing to anyone that would acknowledge him, but of course most wouldn't. He talked and sang about god and various aspects of Christ - definitely a born again. He asked us our stop, and to be safe I gave him a false one. His talk then turned to his family (probably because we were clearly together as one)... He mentioned a dead wife and a dead son. He'd lost them both around Christmas time. Tears welled in his eyes... his voice got very small. He again talked about god, how he'd found god and that god was good. He then apologized, produced a glass flask from his pocket, and took a swig. As he stood to get off the train we asked him to stay safe and have a happy new year.

You could feel the relief in the train car as the man exited, but you couldn't help but feel for him -- getting 'pissed' (drunk) and riding the tube New Years Eve because he had no where else to go, no family to go home to. I suppose the cynics will think he used this story as a ploy, but for what? He never asked or indicated that he would take money from anyone, he simply stood and said goodbye at his stop.
New Year's was spent relaxing with the B's at S's flat. A little beer and wine plus conversation were all that we needed to usher in the new year.
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day08/

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January 01, 2004
London, Day 3
(2004/01/01 - Thursday)
The B's were pretty tired today. Hol suggested they try the New Years Day Parade and then hit either the Natural History or Science Museums.
We took the tube to Piccadilly Circus, and caught the Soho walking tour of "Courtesans, Criminals, and Conmen". This was a pretty cool walk through Soho. The guide discussed some the various 'dens of iniquity' here over the past 2 centuries, the gangsters, and other local happenings as we walked the streets. We didn't get our schedule right so that we could do the famous --
Jack the Ripper" walk. Next time. *grin*
With the walk over we grabbed a bite in Soho, and then caught the tube at Leicester Square back to Westminster. A short walk up King Charles St. and we entered a small door facing Saint James's Park. This is the Cabinet War Rooms museum. A time capsule of the nerve center Winston Churchill used during World War II. The rooms were top secret during the war, and for years after remained as they were the day the war ended, sealed and unused. The rooms act as both a museum of the war time efforts that took place here and as a Winston Churchill museum (the Imperial War Museum group plans to add to the War Rooms a Churchill dedicated section).

This museum will work for mature teenagers, but kids will be bored silly. One really fun aspect was the few period actors working as docents in the rooms. The young lady, acting as one of the 'typist girls', was very good. Part of their role was to walk from room to room, in character, making conversation with the tourists. This was all improv, and while she obviously had a number of stock bits, I was quite impressed with her back story. At one point, a tourist made a comment about how nice her dress was (a period costume obviously). She had an entire story about it being second hand passed on from her older sister who couldn't fit into it any longer because she'd had two kids. At another point she chatted about the current popular music and movies of that period. Very fun.
On the way back to Chiswick, we stopped off at the Victor and Albert Museum to see the Zoomorphic architectural exhibit going on through the 4th. My favorite display was the original model of Saint Mary's Axe which now graces the London sky line and we'd seen earlier, both from the London Eye and across the Thames from Tower of London.
We headed home to Swindon and J put the hammer down on the M4. We were home in a little more than an hour. A nice E39 Alpina B10 passed us on the way.
Chinese take away and plenty of beers for a late dinner. We sat up late discussing life, parenting, travel, and plans. It was certainly nice to sit with our friends and just talk. The kids were in bed and they could both relax, together... Something that seems to come infrequently in a house with 3 kids (2 under 3 years old).
Brit phrase of the day: 'lost the plot' - no longer following the conversation. "he's lost the plot again...".
Photo Album:
http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day09/

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January 02, 2004
Down Day
(2004/01/02 - Friday)
Down time day. Everyone needed it after 3 solid days in London.
Did some shopping for gifts in Swindon. Noticed a nice E36 Alpina B3.2 parked in town. J stayed home with the kids. We got lots of tourist-y gifts. The B's want tomorrow off, so I think we will head to Stonehenge for the day. Only 4 days left! Feels like I'd need about 3-6 months to be satisfied, that and a much larger bank account (or credit line).
We took E and J out to dinner to thank them for their hospitality. We started at a pub for a couple drinks, then headed over to the Curry Garden. A long three course meal followed... popadoms, samosa, and chicken tikka. The lime hot pickle with onion salad were nice and spicy. Entrees were lamb tikka rogen josh, chicken bhuna, chicken madras, and spicy bombay potatoes. Pilau rice and garlic nan. Dessert was pinapple fritters (hot), a honey pot, a hazelnut crunch, and a chocolate dish. Dinner was delicious. I'm hungry just thinking about it. Conversation turned to parenting. J & E appear to have the same grumbles with M that we had just a few years ago...
Brit phrase of the day: slapper (pronounced: slappa) -- town bike, tart, slut.
After dinner we walked over to another pub, the
beehive, for a night cap. J did a wonderful rendition of a sperm using a crutch whilst telling his 'wanker' joke.

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January 03, 2004
Stonehenge
(2004/01/03 - Saturday)
Unfortunately we were unable to secure tickets to Alls Well That Ends Well at the Swan in Stratford-upon-Avon. I'll probably kick myself for this particularly poorly planned aspect of the trip. I really wanted to see the show, but couldn't make it work. I guess we'll have to come back. *grin* Once we were pretty certain no rush tickets would become available, we drove out to Stonehenge.
The drive south from Swindon gave us more chances to take in the English countryside. Although most of the leaves were off the trees, everything was green.
Stonehenge, I suppose, is a bunch of big rocks sitting in the chilly south of England. What amazed me the most was the sheer amount of man power required to move the rocks (some are from Wales, over 100 miles away!), the precision required to shape the stones to fit together properly, and the knowledge of astronomy to properly place the stones, all of it occurring over 5000 years ago. Pretty neat stuff. This was an easy day trip from Swindon and we were home in time for the FA cup match that evening...
Watched an FA cup match w/ J (Southampton v. New Castle: 0-3). Also watched some timely UK history programs about some of the kings we'd learned about just a few days earlier in London.
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day11/

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January 04, 2004
Bath
(2004/01/04 - Sunday)
We drove out to Bath today. The motorway takes you along a ridgeline overlooking the city in the valley below. From the road you could see a quite packed little city, full of classic architecture. The surrounding hills were quite green. There was quite a bit of traffic as we entered the town and finally J navigated us to a parking lot just below the Royal Crescent. We broke out the new stroller and "buggy board" (I'd never seen these before in the states, but it worked great for pushing the baby and 3 year old around quickly -- everyone seemed to have them here) for the walk down to the main attraction, the Roman Baths.
The
Roman Baths are an archeological find excavated from under the surface of the modern day Bath. According to the museum, the original site is 6 meters below the current streets and was found during some sewer work. They've excavated a great deal of the original site, finding many bits of Roman history in the process. For a site built nearly 2000 years ago, it was amazing to the see the simple filtration and drainage system originally implemented by the Romans, still in working order. There was even an original lead pipe that originally fed a fountain in the floor of the main bath. The Romans and people that made pilgrimages here up to 400 AD believed that not only sitting in the naturally hot pools, but drinking it would cure various health problems. Visitors can still purchase a cup of (treated) bath water for 50p. (ugh!)
After visiting the Baths, we stopped in front of the Bath Abbey for a few quick pictures before lunch. We walked past the Abbey, down to the Avon. We ate at Caffe Uno on the river front just next to the Pultney Bridge. C was very tired and having a bad day. Poor E nearly lost it with her. She was definitely acting like a brat and testing her parents. I think she's probably a little shocked by the move to England and change in surroundings. Her parents seem to be attempting to put her back into a consistent routine to get her back on track. I definitely feel for their situation with her, she’s currently a handful. When E asked for any advice, I just tried to emphasis that they should feel free to discipline her however/whenever they need to and not feel like they can't do that because we are around. I don't mind waiting or stopping to get C under control.

After our late afternoon meal, we walked up the hill to The Circus and Royal Crescent (also, a postcard we picked up). These are two amazing streets in Bath. Unfortunately, it was a bit too dark for my camera by the time we got there -- I bought a few postcards instead. I looked at housing in Bath, in case anyone wanted to move there. A 2 bedroom/2 bath flat on The Circus is going to cost you £355,000. Cheaper than London! (S's 3 bedroom/2 bath flat in Chiswick London was in the £750,000 range.) I'll leave the conversion to USD as an exercise for the reader. (Ouch!)
Photo Album: http://mehling.org/gallery/v/Travel/UK_2003-04/UK_Day12/

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January 05, 2004
Final Day
(2004/01/05 - Monday)
We spent our last day preparing for the trip home. It has been quite a trip. One that all of us have enjoyed. Based on our travels this year we are already discussing a trip back in the summer of 2005. It would be nice to see England when the weather is a bit nicer. We are also discussing trips to France and Spain.
We wrote postcards, did some last minute gift shopping during the day. None of us really want to go home just yet, but it will be nice to get back. I'm sure the B's will miss us, but they no doubt want their house back too! We'll miss them while they are here in the UK for the next couple of years.
Brit phrase of day: TOA (Tits Over Ass) -- trip, fall, or stumble.
One last curry take away for dinner, plus a stop at the pub with J. J suggested we go down to town to order the take away. When I suggested we call ahead, order and then just go down and pick it up, he looked incredulous. "If we do that, we won't be able to stop at a pub I know while the food is getting prepared?" Right. I like the way this guy thinks. I miss him already.

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January 07, 2004
Return to Reality
Well, we've pretty much recovered from the massive time shift. Starting to look around at the rubble that is our lives at the moment. You know all the junk you collect while traveling? Receipts. Dirty laundry. Gifts. Luggage. House needs cleaning. Bills need to be paid. The list goes on and on.
On our return home, we found out about some, um, stuff that happened while we were away. Our pet sitter (one of Tedd's friends from the neighborhood), early in the visit got locked out of the house.
She panicked and asked our neighbors for help. In the process of pulling a ladder down in the garage they *nailed* my car on the trunk lid w/ the metal ladder. About an 18" gash down to the bare metal.
*Sigh* I was too angry to speak, and I've only looked in the dark. For all I know they nailed my car elsewhere or even better Hol's new car. Once they got the ladder down, they climbed to the second story to see if they could get in a window. Of course all the windows were firmly locked, but they tried anyway -- now we have a nice 4" gash in our guest room screen.
*Sigh* Excellent. Keep in mind our windows and screens are nearly 2 months old! We needed new ones anyway, I guess. Finally the pet sitter figured out she could read our number in the UK through the kitchen window. She called us. We told her where the spare key was in the garage (probably should have mentioned it before, lesson learned -- the hard way). The key is in one of those "tricky" fake soda pop cans. The neighbor couldn't figure out how to pop the top off, so he just ripped it in half.
*Sigh* How could I even be upset at this point?
Of course they were only trying to help, right? What can I say? Nothing, I'll just keep my mouth shut (except here).
Update: OK, now a different neighbor has reported to Holly that the ladder fell when the neighbor tripped, and tripped so bad that he bled and ended up visiting the hospital. Gah.

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